Terroir Alert! Champagne Is Expanding and Tempers Are Popping

Mony
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An invisible line separates the backwater town of Ventelay, France, from the bubbly opulence of Champagne.

Over there, vineyards of the famed sparkling wine stretch for dozens of miles to the south and east, enriching property owners through the fruits of some of the world’s most valuable agricultural land.

On the other side of the line,…

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